When it comes to line, leader and gear changes on the water, if it isn’t easy, you won’t do it. That’s a Troutbitten mantra, and it’s the same for every angler I’ve ever met. It’s true, because none of us wants to waste fishing time by tying knots. Reaching into packs and pockets, stringing up line and turning tippet, takes us away from what we enjoy most — casting and drifting.
On the flip side, continued success and enjoyment on the river is a result of versatility. Solving the daily mystery, adapting our approach and getting that next bite is our endless goal. Adapting and changing quickly is therefore a critical piece of the game. Knotting on the next fly is the easy part, but swift, wholesale leader changes are more elusive.
Honestly, there are a lot of bad ways to change leaders. And sadly, some of them are the industry standards.
I’ve tried everything you can think of, and I’d like to show you what works for me. I change leaders and rigs often. I do it fast, and I sincerely believe it can’t be done with any more efficiency. This is the way.
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Prime
The leader is the most important thing in your rig. It’s more important than the fly, and it’s more important than the fly line. Because the leader finishes the delivery from your rod tip to the fly.
For example, a good dry fly leader is designed very differently than a tight line nymphing leader. Both have tapers and diameters that meet different objectives. So changing leaders is necessary for achieving great presentations with radically different tactics. And trying to force one leader to do it all leads to frustration and failure.
Admittedly, I’m a leader junkie. I love experimenting with new ideas and tweaking some of my favorite formulas. But I only use a few leaders on the water, while some anglers may have a half dozen. Whatever you carry, changing leaders must be done quickly, or you will avoid making those changes.
I aim for one minute. And if it takes me more than two minutes to change a leader, I’m doing something wrong.
READ: Troutbitten | Efficiency: Part 2 — Leader and Tippet Changes
Loop to Loop Sucks
The handshake loop or loop-to-loop connection is the go-to industry standard line to leader connection.
. . . And it’s terrible.
This popular method has significant failings:
— It’s clunky when it goes through the guides.
— It is not streamlined.
— It is not easy to attach or detach, because . . .
— It takes time to run the whole leader through the loop.
— Flies cannot remain attached when changing.
Last point here: The handshake loop doesn’t want to stop shaking hands. Once significant tension has been put on the loop-to-loop, it’s often difficult to pry the loops apart.
PODCAST: Troutbitten |S3 Ep2 — The Inefficiencies that Waste Your Fishing Time
Photo by Josh Darling
Instead . . .
So I don’t use a loop to loop. Instead, I use the most common connection in fishing — a clinch knot.
I tie a three or four turn clinch knot to the loop on the end of the fly line as though it were the eye of a hook. This connection is much more streamlined when it must go through the rod guides. It’s much quicker to attach and detach, and it’s extremely efficient.
Does that knot create a slit in the fly line? Sure it does! And it should.
The strength of a fly line is the braided core, not the coating. So the clinch knot cuts through the thin coating and reaches the braided core. Good!
READ: Troutbitten | Loop to Loop is Bad — Try Attaching Your Leader This Way
Any concern about water seeping into that core seems like what my grandfather called flying too low. If any water does seep in, it’s only a tiny amount. And I have never found my fly line to sink with this connection. Let’s also remember that until there were fly line loops at the end of the line (just a decade ago) most of us fished a nail knot to the butt end of a fly line with the core exposed. Were we worried about water seeping in then? I was not. And my line didn’t sink then either.
Use a simple four turn clinch knot to attach the leader. Nothing beats it.
That’s it. (Photo by Josh Darling)
Leader Storage
Another industry-standard idea for changing leaders is to change reel spools.
And it’s another horrible idea.
Why carry separate spools just to change leaders? Why spend five to ten minutes changing reel spools and restringing the rod, just to change the leader?
Likewise, the idea of carrying two rods for two tactics is rarely a good idea. It’s impossible to carry two rods and cover much water. Those who try it quickly understand. And it’s much easier to simply change leaders while using a versatile fly rod.
READ: Troutbitten | Use a Versatile Fly Rod
So, wrapping leaders around your hand seems like a fine idea . . . until it’s time to unwrap them. This tedious process becomes more arduous as the leader gets longer. Try doing it with a thirty-foot Mono Rig leader just once, and you’ll never do it again.
I use three-inch diameter Maxima spools to store all of my leaders. Nothing could be simpler. It makes transitions wonderfully simple.
Unroll it, clinch knot to the fly line, and you’re back to fishing.
I use hair ties to hold the leader on the spool. They are far better than rubber bands, because you can grab them.
Maxima spools are perfect, because of the way the rim has a valley. I love these sturdy spools so much that I’ve ordered thousands of them, and this is how all Troutbitten leaders are shipped.
Using any diameter smaller than three inches for a full leader is problematic. The coils are simply too small. Yes, you can (and should) stretch all leaders before use. But anything less than three inches for storage is too much winding anyway.
Photo by Josh Darling
And for Tippet Sections . . .
Often, a wholesale leader change is unnecessary, and instead, changing only the tippet section is more efficient.
I do this most often with my nymph and streamer leaders, and by incorporating a tippet ring just before the tippet section, I make changes easily.
I carry small rigging foams ready with two nymphs, two streamers, a dry dropper rig, an indy rig, or whatever is necessary. These foams are smaller in diameter than the Maxima spool for whole leaders, and that works because there’s less to wind, and the smaller tippet holds less coil.
Clipping off everything from the tippet ring down saves time and saves material. These foams are easily stored in a pocket, with the flies and appropriate tippet ready to go. That kind of efficiency is unbeatable.
Do It
After decades of fishing, after trial and error, testing and going back to the drawing board, I’ve been settled on the system above for quite a while. Most of my Troutbitten friends use the same system for changing leaders, because it’s quick, and effective.
Lighting fast leader changes make fishing more fun.
Fish hard, friends.
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Enjoy the day.
Domenick Swentosky
T R O U T B I T T E N
domenick@troutbitten.com
Another very useful video. Many thanks. Now, could you tell me what tippet tender you use?
Hi Alex,
It’s the Orvis Tippet Spool Holder.
I go flyfishing to relax so taking a couple or three minutes to change a leader is just fine to me! I am never in that much of a rush! I like to slow down, take my time, observe my surroundings, to stop and smell the flowers! To me that is as much a part of the experience as anything else?
Sure thing. We all get that. And I think every Troutbitten angler feels that way too.
For some reason, when I write or talk about efficiency, people make assumptions that we’re all out there racing around for the next trout, or that we’re fretting over seconds saved and counting up perfect casts.
We are not.
And it’s very possible to stop and relax for part of the day and then fish hard later.
Part of success, for many of us, is working within our system to solve the daily puzzle on the water. Efficiency is part of it. Have you ever had twenty minutes of daylight left and the best spinner fall of the year is in front of you? If you catch one trout then break off on a tree, wouldn’t you like to tie that next leader section and rusty spinner on as soon as possible.? I think you would. And those who claim not to care about efficiency have to admit that it surely matters to them in those times.
Anglers who stay in the game for a lifetime usually care about these kinds of things. It’s a trait that I see in those stick with it.
Keep reading through Troutbitten, and you’ll get a fuller flavor for what this Troutbitten project is all about. We love all of it — every bit of it out there. Here’s a good start . . .
https://troutbitten.com/2020/08/29/two-sides-to-every-fisherman-2/
Cheers.
Dom
I think it’s faster, for me anyway, to go loop to loop. I feel it’s very easy and I rarely have any issues. More importantly, again speaking for myself, is that tying knots in winter is really difficult now that I am north of 50. Cold and arthritis are a nasty combo. Even a simple knot is difficult when your finger are stiff and ache. I think it’s a good idea, for those who are fast knot tyers and/or have good blood flow to the fingers. But I am genuinely grateful for that loop at the end. It has been critical for me to continue to fish when it gets cold.
Hi Jayce,
If you try tying a clinch in that diameter, you’ll see that it’s much easier than tying the small diameters to your fly. And if you’re out there already, I assume you’ll have to tie a knot to the fly once in a while too.
For changing the leader, loop to loop takes more work with the fingers. It’s a fact. As I mentioned, many times, it’s work just to get the loops to stop shaking hands.
That said, I understand where you’re coming from. And to be honest, if tying a four turn clinch is tough, then leader changes on windy cold days is not for you. Rigging at all then, must be very limited in those situations, so just keep what you have on.
Cheers.
Dom
I have subscribed to your mantra that “if it isn’t easy, you won’t do it” for years, and agree that your approach is by far the most efficient. My one dilemma has been that I don’t have an abundance of leftover Maxima spools. I have discovered an alternative that works for me. It is a spool called “The Keeper” sold by Tenkara USA. The plusses of this spool at that is just about 3″ in diameter, so leaders com e off it without tight coils, it will hold 2 pre-made leaders, and no hairband is needed, as it has a rubber disc that traps the leader and keeps it from unraveling. The only downside I can find is that it costs $12, but two of them provide a lifetime supply of spools holding leaders, and you can carry 4 leader options with less space taken up in the vest than with the Maxima spools.
Right on, Leigh. I bought The Keeper some years back. And I liked if for a little while. Generally, I found it to be almost overbuilt. There are too many features for a simple leader holder. And I’d rather the line goes on and comes off without tension. I found that I prefer my Maxima spools and hair ties for those reasons. It just unrolls easier too. BUT, that’s me. And you make very good points. The thing is to find what works for you. And I can’t reasonably argue against The Keeper. It’s a good tool.
Cheers.
Dom
Dom, do you now prefer this method rather than the nail knot/#20 Chameleon/tipper ring set-up?
Thinking it might be faster. Threading those tipper rings takes a steady hand.
As a relatively new fly fisher, I thank you for your help and education!
Hi Mike,
Yes. It’s cleaner than the tippet ring set up.
Thanks for the support.
Cheers.
Dom
Great video. What rod do you tight line nymph and throw dry flies with?
Hi Mike,
I advocate for a versatile rod that can do many things.
https://troutbitten.com/2021/09/22/the-best-fly-rods-for-the-mono-rig-and-euro-nymphing-my-favorite-rods/
Those are my favorite rods. Each of them does everything on the stream for me: dries, nymphs in many different ways and streamers.
Cheers.
Dom
Is this mainly for tight line nymphing? Otherwise how do you deal with wearing down the butt section of the leader? Retie new sections on?
Hi John, that’s a very fair question.
No. This isn’t just for tight line rigs. I change ALL my leaders this way. Sure you loose a little of the butt section each time. But with care, I can keep that to less than an inch. After a dozen leader changes on one leader, sure, I’m getting shorter. So, like you said, I’ll tie in a new butt section.
It’s all part of the process.
Cheers.
DOm
I’m a little late to this video but I have to say your website has some of the best information out there. I use this approach also – but I also use another whereby I cut of my factory loop…..make my own tiny loop at the end of the fly line and put a 3mm tippet ring at the end…..UV sealed over a little tying thread. I have never had this fail once……in fact old fly lines will fall apart and disintegrate before my UV ring ever comes apart. I clinch knot the butt section of my leader directly to the 3MM tippet ring. Works awesome. Thank you for sharing your videos.
Hi Walter.
Good stuff. May I ask why you would clip off the welded loop and go to the trouble of adding the ring? What is the advantage?
Before welded loops, I used to add about ten inches of .017″ nail knotted to the fly line, then go to a tippet ring, then attach leaders from there. But with modern fly line welded loops, I made the change because it is easier and cleaner for me.
Dom
Hey Dom,
Love all your work!
Do you use this method to switch all your leaders, even the micro-thin leaders with butt sections that are less than 10# test?
Thank you!!!!