Tight line and euro nymphing is experiencing a groundswell of popularity. These tactics have been around for decades, but anglers are now learning the techniques from better sources, with solid advice and a fresh understanding of what is possible when using a contact rig. Thoughtful fishermen like George Daniel and Devin Olsen have written excellent books on the subject. Lance Egan and Devin have produced three great videos that show some of these tactics in practice. And George has put much of what he teaches on film.
I like to think that Troutbitten is another good resource for advancing tight line tactics to the forefront. And there are countless other quality sources in the form of podcasts, message boards, etc. We all do it a bit differently, and some of these anglers are bound by the FIPS rules of competition.
So now, more than ever, with a good understanding of the basics and beyond, fishermen love contact systems. These rigs provide us with uninterrupted control of the flies, and that is the ultimate attraction.
Another draw is in the versatility of design. Everyone has their own favorite leaders, rods, lines and flies. Variations abound. So there’s room for style and for adapting to your waters and your trout. To the neophyte, all of this might be a confusing mess. But to the initiated, tight line and euro nymphing is the kind of thing that leads us down the best of rabbit holes.
READ: Troutbitten | Euro Nymphing and Mono Rig
LISTEN: Troutbitten Podcast Series | The Nine Essential Skills for Tight Line and Euro Nymphing
GD
George Daniel recently published a helpful video about the benefits of euro lines vs a Mono Rig in the winter. I thank George for bringing up the topic and offering his own preference. Here’s the video.
Since George published the video, I’ve received countless questions about my thoughts regarding euro lines and mono rigs. While this is also one of the most common questions I’ve fielded through the years, it has a complex answer.
Although I’ve addressed this topic in many articles here on Troutbitten, there is no write up that tackles this choice directly. So let’s fix that.
Here are my thoughts on euro nymphing lines vs a Mono Rig. These views address all seasons, all distances and many variations.
Defining the Terms
Let’s understand some things together. A euro nymphing fly line is a very thin diameter line of about .022”. Sometimes it is tapered, sometimes not. It’s often called a euro line, a comp line or a tactical fly line. But it is not intended to perform like a traditional fly line. You will not get that kind of performance from it.
These lines were originally developed as a response to a FIPS competition rule that restricted the length of a leader to twice the length of the fly rod. Before the rule, many (maybe most) competitors used a Mono Rig.
Euro nymphing lines are manufactured with either a braided core (like fly line backing) or a mono core of about 8-10 lb in thickness and flexibility. Each type has its strengths and weaknesses.
READ: Troutbitten | The Mono Rig
Some anglers define a Mono Rig as a leader long enough to keep fly line on the reel, so anglers hold only mono in their hands. (That’s what I prefer.)
But I’d say a Mono Rig is a leader that’s long enough to keep the fly line inside the rod guides — the fly line goes no further than the tip-top (the last guide). I fished this way for many years, with a twenty-foot leader, and I still called it a Mono Rig. Essentially, if you are not casting with a fly line out of the guides, then you are using the performance of a Mono Rig. That’s my own definition. But it gets complicated . . .
Many (probably most) competition anglers, these days, maximize their leader length to 20-24 feet — two times the length of their fly rod. They attach that long leader to their euro line. So are they fishing a Mono Rig? At thirty feet or less (because let’s say ten feet of it is in the rod guides) — at the range where the majority of good tight line nymphing happens — I’d say they are. With no fly line out of the guides, it’s a Mono Rig to me. Beyond twenty feet, with a bit of that euro line out of the guides, I guess it isn’t. But it’s also nothing like a standard line either. And it’s much closer to a Mono Rig than a standard fly-line-style nymphing rig.
See what I mean? Life is confusing. But these are the kind of things that most of us who are deep into these tactics find wonderfully complicated.
So, with the terms defined (kind of), let’s dig in deep, comparing the performance of euro nymphing fly lines vs The Mono Rig.
Feel and Handling
Start with George’s excellent point. For anyone struggling to get used to the feel of monofilament in the line hand, a euro line may be your best choice. George’s video is specifically about cold winter fishing, and feeling the thicker, more textured euro line is easier than feeling mono in the winter. It’s true.
A hand-twist retrieve is better with a tactical line, so that’s an advantage. But I use what I call a Pulley Retrieve with my Mono Rig instead, which allows for more control and versatility over retrieve speed, while also putting me in a better position to shoot line.
Many of us crave the feel of mono in our hands because it’s more sensitive. And we’ve learned to deal with some minor issues. In fact, what some anglers list as issues are non-existent with a little adaptation and attention to detail.
READ: Troutbitten | Shoot Line on the Backcast
Sensitivity
Fly line coating deadens our contact to the nymph. Its soft texture absorbs some of the bumps and ticks of the weight as it’s in contact with the riverbed. Likewise, when a trout bites softly on our nymph, we feel the strike better with a Mono Rig.
Of the two monofilaments, fluorocarbon is even more sensitive than nylon, but fluoro tends to hold a coil too much, so I stay with nylon for the butt section.
Speaking of that . . .
Coiling
A Mono Rig holds more coils. There’s no doubt. In the nineties, I read Joe Humphreys’ Trout Tactics, and I duplicated his Mono Rig setup. Coiling was my biggest issue. And I didn’t use it much.
Foolishly, I never thought to stretch the mono before use.
Preventing coils is simple. Choose the right butt section material, and stretch it at the beginning of the day. Maxima Chameleon lays flat, even in cold weather. So does Amnesia and Cortland Euro Nymphing Leader Material. Stretch it hard and enjoy a Mono Rig without trouble.
However, anything thicker than about .017” can be problematic, no matter how much you stretch the line.
READ: Troutbitten | How to Easily Avoid the Mono Rig Coiling Problem
Euro lines hold less coil, in general. But the mono core euro lines hold quite a bit of coil in the winter too, so they should also be stretched before use. If you want virtually no coil in cold weather, use a braided core euro line. I don’t personally recommend them, because braided core lines have very poor turnover power, and they don’t suit my casting style.
READ: Troutbitten | Fly Fishing the Mono Rig — It’s Casting, Not Lobbing
** Twisting ** If you are doing a repetitive oval cast in the same direction, then twisting may be your problem and not coiling. Consider a more traditional cast instead. Take the large oval out. Stop lobbing and start casting. There are many big advantages to this.
Winter Ice
In the coldest months, ice in the guides drives many fly fishermen indoors, because ice is a pain to deal with. And one of the great advantages of a Mono Rig is that less ice builds in the guides. The Mono Rig is thinner, so it carries less water. And the relative stiffness of mono tends to knock out much of the ice that does happen to build up.
Euro fly lines form less ice than a standard fly line because they’re skinnier. But they build more ice than a Mono Rig.
READ: Troutbitten | Fly Fishing in the Winter: Ice in the Guides?
Hook Setting
With each strip, four fingers grasp the line as it goes around the edge of my thumb. I have no trouble strip setting a Mono Rig this way.
Some anglers have difficulty strip setting with streamers on a Mono Rig. I do not.
First, I don’t always strip set, because it’s not always the best option. Second, when stripping streamers, I grasp the line with four fingers and turn my hand about forty-five degrees before pulling with every strip. (See the above picture.)
That said, there’s no argument that it’s easier to strip set with a euro fly line.
Sag
This is a big one. If the euro line does end up out of the guides, it sags more than a Mono Rig of .017’. The euro fly line, at .022” weighs a lot more, so it sags more. Sag equals drag. And that’s a bad thing — real bad.
Ten feet of 20 lb (.017″) Maxima Chameleon, at 63 centigrams.
Ten feet of Cortland Mono Core Euro Line (.022″), at 1.06 grams. It weighs almost twice as much.
The Mono Rig angler also has the choice to go very thin on the butt section for even less sag. But take note: micro-thin butt sections are a specialized approach. While they have the advantage of less sag at longer range, they lack turnover power. And they put a variety of tight line tactics out of reach.
Two Materials | Two Types of Performance
I used a Mono Rig that was short enough to have (regular) fly line in my hand for five years. The leader was around 20 feet. And back then, I never fished tight line tactics further away. When I did start to cast at distance, I realized that I despised having two different materials in a tight line cast.
A euro fly line performs differently in the cast than does the leader material it’s attached to. It turns over with a different power, and effectively casting it requires a slightly different stroke. For this reason, I don’t like having both materials in the cast. I prefer the long length of a Mono Rig butt section, because its performance is more predictable.
The Junction
Similarly, I hate having the junction of the fly-line-to-the-leader in my rod guides. No matter how clean the connection, with a needle knot, a super glue splice, etc., the junction is still there. It’s in the guides. It doesn’t necessarily hang up, but it bumps in the guides, creating friction that becomes a hindrance to shooting line.
If you are only tight line nymphing at close range, this doesn’t matter. But if you expand your range to include tight line to the indicator tactics and streamers at distance, then shooting line becomes a big part of what you do. There’s nothing like the feeling of a long, clean butt section sailing through the guides. And I tie my leaders to make that happen.
READ: Troutbitten | Loop to Loop Is Bad — Try Attaching Your Leader This Way
Versatility
If you spool up a euro fly line, that’s what you’re stuck with. Sure, you can swap out spools, but it requires no less than five minutes to switch. So you won’t do it often. No one does. Many anglers carry separate spools with good intentions, but they don’t change often once they realize the inconvenience.
Instead, I keep a regular fly line on my reel that matches my fly rod. Then I attach my Mono Rig with a four turn clinch knot to the welded loop. When rising trout or another situation has me convinced that using fly line is the better option, I simply change leaders. It takes me about one minute to make the switch, and I have no problem doing this frequently, because I’m not wasting time.
Here’s a video on how I change leaders:
READ: Troutbitten | Efficiency: Leader and Tippet Changes
Rod Load
Because the euro fly line weighs more, it loads a fly rod more than a Mono Rig. To some, this is an advantage. But to those familiar with casting tight line rigs, most rods load very well with a Mono Rig. And don’t forget the extra weight of that euro line creates more sag/drag.
READ: Troutbitten | Put More Juice in the Cast
Longevity and Durability
For what it’s worth, the cost of fishing a Mono Rig is negligible compared to a euro fly line. The euro lines don’t last long, because the extra-thin coating on the thin core is an easily damaged wrapper, no matter how well the line is manufactured.
My Mono Rig lasts until I do something dumb to it, like step on the butt section with aluminum treads or get the whole damn thing stuck in a tree.
Casting Dry Flies
Some euro fly lines casts dries easier than a Mono Rig because they weighs more. And while neither of these rigs will punch a #10 Humpy into the wind, some euro lines can push more out there.
I’ve heard it said that a Mono Rig can’t cast dry flies. But that’s absolutely false. Sure, a micro-thin Mono Rig with an 8 lb butt section won’t cast dries. But a 20 pound (.017”) butt section, like the Troutbitten Standard Mono Rig, casts small dry flies wonderfully, up to about 25 feet.
READ: Troutbitten | Dry Flies On the Mono Rig
If I want to spend much time casting dry flies, I simply change leaders as mentioned above, using the unmatched performance of the standard fly line on my reel. I love casting dries with a four weight fly line, and I do it every time the trout give me a chance. But with a euro line on your reel, you don’t have that option.
Spooling a reel with a euro line dramatically limits your versatility.
READ: Troutbitten | Fly Fishing the Mono Rig Q&A: Lines, Rigging and Skeptics
Snow day
Casting Weight
Lastly, does a euro fly line or a Mono Rig cast more like a standard fly line while casting nymphs?
The answer seems obvious. But it’s not. And there are many variables at play.
For many years, I’ve preached a casting approach to tight line tactics rather than a lobbing style. And for that, we need fly line performance from our thin line, be it a Mono Rig or euro fly line.
Micro-thin butt sections for a Mono Rig (like 6 lb) do not have fly line style performance. However, butt sections of about .015” and .017” cast very much like a fly line, if you treat them that way. Good, crisp casting, with speed is the trick.
The Mono Rig is stiffer than a euro line, and that’s where it gets its fly line style performance — even though it’s a thinner and lighter line. By contrast, the euro line weighs a bit more than the Mono Rig, so at slower velocities, it may get a better push, if the technique is solid.
Generally, I have little tolerance for braided core euro fly lines, as they are simply too floppy for my casting style. Mono core euro lines are much closer in performance to a Mono Rig.
Wrap Up
I still spend much of my time on the water fiddling with leaders. My Troutbitten Standard Mono Rig has changed little over the last few years, because after decades of experimentation, it’s perfect for what I do. But I spend an inordinate amount of time trying other leader formulas. I like to understand what is possible, and I enjoy the exploration of tactics and ideas.
I’ve fished euro fly lines enough to know why I don’t care for them. And there are limited situations where I would recommend them as a first option.
Instead, I prefer the Mono Rig as my day-to-day tool for all tight line tactics.
That’s me. But go ahead and drop your own thoughts in the comments below. Because it’s a wide, wide world out there, with lots of diversity and a bunch of ways to catch trout.
Fish hard, friends.
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Enjoy the day.
Domenick Swentosky
T R O U T B I T T E N
domenick@troutbitten.com
Dom, I remember our time together rigging up in the parking lot this past spring. You wanted to put a Mono rig on my rod/reel. I was insistent on using the brand new Euro line I had purchased for our trip. You were right, I was wrong lol. I didn’t get the concept or differences then….I do now. You actually knew what you were talking about…… I didn’t. Much less guide sag with mono, i.e. greater direct contact. And yes, you absolutely can cast a dry with Mono. This write up is quite educational and a good refresher for me on pros and cons of both. Thanks for sharing your years of “fine tuning”. John
How long will you fish a mono rig before replacing due to wear? I’ve been replacing when the line no longer feels smooth. Am I replacing them to often?
Never used euro line, I don’t see any benefits that justify the cost.
Hey buddy. I don’t replace it often. Usually, like I wrote above, it lasts until I do something dumb, like step on it with studs or get it in a tree. I’ve definitely had the same a Mono Rig for many months of almost every day use and didn’t feel the need to change it.
Dom
Thanks Dom,
Apparently I’ve been wasting Maxima.
I use them all. Euro line on one reel, opst on another and maxima on a third. No one is bettet than the other ive found. Opst is bad in the rain and cold, sticks to the rod blank and makes casting horrible, the euroline isnt the most sensitive but its versitile and casts well (I like the mono core) and the mono rig is well the mono rig, I dont know that I find many disadvantages in the mono rig. For me catch rates seem similar. Great topic Dom
Cheers.
So need to replace fly line,and see Mastery nymph line for reasonable price,but I also do a lot of roll casting with Euro rod. Is it feasible to roll cast with nymph line,often fishing 50 to 70ft away on big river. Thanks.
Hi Rich,
I don’t find any need for a speicalized fly line. Here’s my Recommended Gear page:
https://troutbitten.com/recommended-gear/
You don’t need a “nymph” line of any kind. Yes, you can roll cast, most any fly line. It’s the cast and not the line.
Cheers.
Dom
Have never tried a euro rig. I’ve been using the mono rig from day one and have been tight lining for only two years. Tight lining has pretty much replaced my regular fly fishing. I have however changed to using a straight 10lb amnesia leader with tippet attached directly to the end . I really like this setup and I’m thinking of carrying a shortened wf 4wt line to add on if the fish start hitting the top. I’m thinking about a 30 ft fly line would work for most dry fly fishing . Any advice on this would be appreciated.
I love that you are thinking outside the box and solving problems. I do think you are complicating things, though. Just spool the reel up with a regular fly line that matches the rod. Then only use a mono rig long enough that you will need. (You won’t need 40+ feet.) And when you want to use the fly line, simply change leaders. Make sense?
https://troutbitten.com/2022/05/05/lightning-fast-leader-changes-with-video/
Cheers.
Dom
I’ll add the euro lines are easier to see than chameleon in low light conditions. I have fished several and like Rio’s as it is not a true level line but has a slight taper. It turns over dries beautifully and I use a superglue splice to a short section of 15 then 12 chameleon to a sighter. In the spring when I know I’m going to spend the entire day tightline to dry dropper with high water requiring a bushy fly I like the euro line. Rest of the year I like an OPST or 20lb chameleon mono rig when I am predominantly nymphing. my 2c.
So do you fish the mono rig with any fly rod, or are you pairing with a super long euro rod. The only time I use a mono rig is when I salmon fish with my 10 wt in the Pere Marquette. I have a 9.7 sage x six weight, and was considering building a mono leader for that, when I am nymph fishing. I like how you have regular fly line on be real, seems like I can change out for dries or indicator fishing when I want. Thanks for all you do.
I switched from a mono rig to a “shorty” euro line this year.
I’m still experimenting, but “shorty” euro lines are another option with variation of the pros and cons. I appreciate the feel and handling of the shorty especially in cold weather. I also appreciate the versatility of removing the shorty on stream and using the traditional fly line if I want to switch tactics. I have about a 15′ leader with sighter permanently attached to the shorty, so I treat the whole thing like a long nymph leader similar to how I used the mono rig.
So I have a shorty, but haven’t had a chance to set it up yet, but I intend to do that before the winter is out. Thank you.
Hi Joe,
There’s a lot packed into that question. For a better understanding of my thoughts and choices on fly rods for this stuff, check out the Fly Rods archives on Troubitten. I promise, if you read through these, and follow the links in the articles themselves to supporting material, it’ll all make sense.
https://troutbitten.com/tag/fly-rods/
Cheers.
Dom
Thanks Dom I will.
Thanks for all the great info. I’m color blind and find chameleon difficult to see. Is Maxima clear or ultragreen a good option?
Hi Clint,
Thanks for the question.
So, you’re not really supposed to see Chameleon. So it’s not unusual that you don’t. We don’t need to see our whole butt section, because we train our eyes to watch the Sighter. It’s the sighter that matters. You must see that, or you can’t tight line effectively.
Maxima Clear and Ultragreen are both softer than Chameleon, so they don’t turn over as well. The difference may seem slight, but to me it matters. You also probably won’t see either one better than Chameleon.
I know anglers who really want to see their butt section. And currently, we are filming some stuff where it’s important to see the full leader. I’m using OPST and Amnesia for the butt section. You can learn more about those options here:
https://troutbitten.com/2018/01/24/ask-an-expert-for-euro-nymphing-or-the-mono-rig-what-leader-material-do-you-like-for-the-butt-section/
Make sense?
Dom
What do use for a running line/ leader to indicator line? I’m using 4X maxima , but it’s hard to see. What colored line would be best overall, and not spook fish. And of course low memory.
Thanks for the advice.
Rich
Hi Rich. I’m confused by your question. The Standard Mono Rig is built with a 20 lb Maxima Chameleon butt section that is about 24 feet. I suppose you could think of that as your running line.
“What colored line would be best overall, and not spook fish”
I don’t believe any colored line will spook trout, while it is in the air. Remember, we are not laying this line on the water. It’s almost always up and out of the water, on a tight line.
Hope that helps. Email me if it’s confusing.
Cheers.
Dom
As a dedicated euro nympher, this covers the exact question I have had as I recently started pondering trying out a mono rig. I realized that, in essence, I am already doing so since with the length of leader I use in Euro I rarely have fly line out of the guides anyway so it seems like an easy transition. I build and sell leaders so I tinker quite a bit with formulas and tweaking them with section length and different materials. I built my first mono rig yesterday and look forward to testing it out with a couple of different rods and see what I think.
Thanks for the continual thorough discussion and coverage of this subject.
I’ll make another comment here on versatility. I don’t keep a separate spool with a euro line on it, that takes way too much time to change over. If you buy a euro line that is a level line, you can just cut it into 2-3 sections and make a 20-40 foot section of euro line that can be attached to the end of your fly line. Also RIO and SA make commercially available “shorty” euro line heads that are looped at either end, you can loop-to-loop it to connect to your fly line. Then you can cut the loop off the other end and superglue splice in a short chameleon/sighter section ending in a tippet ring. Personally I think the 20ft is too short for a euro head, I would prefer 30ft – I don’t want the fly line to come off the reel and pull on the euro line w/gravity. The RIO euro line has a slight taper and is essentially a DT line, you can just cut it in half and a have two 40 ft euro heads.
I’m not advocating for euro lines, and I fish mono rigs the majority of time when I’m nymphing, but you can change over quickly and not limit yourself if you do decide to go “euro line”.
For my mono rig I just put on a 30 yard spool of sighter material (I had not read about any other ways to do it) and it has worked real well, better than a Euro fly line. But you pretty much fight any decent fish from the reel because grasping the sighter material is not always easy.
Hi Chris,
If it works, and you are comfortable, stick with it. But I’ll mention this, because it may help . . .
Sighter material is not designed to be a full leader. It’s good for being a sighter. It’s made to be extra limp. Sighter material (we’re talking about the bi-color stuff found in fly shops) is so soft and limp that it has very little turnover power. It forces you to lob instead of cast. Check this out:
https://troutbitten.com/2019/01/02/fly-fishing-the-mono-rig-thicker-leaders-cast-more-like-fly-line/
Cheers.
Dom
Very good article! The only problem I have encountered with the mono rig is its restricted use in some trout streams I fish. Those streams restrict leader length to 17-18’. To overcome this, my reel is spooled with a .27″ running line and I will switch out the mono rig for my hand tied 17-18’ leader. The running allows for 20-25’ cast without too much sag in the rig; then, if I want to dry fly, I will attach a 12-15’ dry fly leader to the running line. I can usually get a 45-50’ cast with the running line, a maximum distance for me to handle a dry. It is true that a conventional fly line would no doubt work better with the dry fly, buy it just doesn’t work for me attempting to tight line with a 17-18’ leader
Hi Don,
What state are you in? PA no longer has the leader length restriction.
Dom
NC; so far as I know there are no leader restrictions here ; however, some private streams (club waters) and Cherokee Reservation special regulation waters have these restrictions.
When you only get on the water a few times a month and drive a few hours to get there then time is everything. I focus less on my rig and more on fishing the rig I have. So far the Mono rig has been my go to. I have about 40′ of 20# Chameleon on top of a WF 4wt Cortland fly line. This allows me to really stretch out when tossing the occasional streamer.
At distance I prefer the regular fly line (certainly looks cooler) but in reality most of my fish catching happens 25′ or less from my rod tip which with few exceptions, wind being one of them, the Mono Rig handles to a T.
Good call.
I’m using a T&T Contact 10’6” 3wt rod for tight lining but have a hell of a hard time doing much else with it?
I have a level line with Dons formula for a mono rig. I was trying to figure out how to make this rig more versatile or is it futile and just use the rod for tight lining? Replace the level line with a traditional fly line? I love dry fly fishing AND tight line nymphing but don’t want to carry two rods.
Forgot to mention I fish mostly on the Delaware River. Mostly upper bigger water portions.
Hi Dave,
I wouldn’t fish dries on the Mono Rig until you really get a feel for the rig itself. Even when you do, like I said above, I much prefer casting dries with regular fly line — that’s what it’s built for.
Streamers on the Mono Rig is pretty easy if you can tight line nymph. Check out the Streamers Archives for some helpful articles:
https://troutbitten.com/category/streamers/
That said, a three weight is not my rod of choice, because I do like to fish streamers a lot. But that rod will do fine, if you keep the streamers relatively small.
Make sense?
Dom
Thanks Dom. I’ve been tempted to sell the rod and get a four weight 10footer. Replacing my cortland pro level line with an actual fly line since I use the long mono rig. My thinking is it would allow me to fish dry fly, tight line and small streamer without bringing multiple rods. Is there a rod (that you know of) that can meet those needs? Primarily dry and nymph. I like to dry and nymph about 90% and 10% streamer.
Right on, Dave. And I agree, you can do it all with one rod. That’s always been my goal, because for the places I fish and the amount of water I like to cover and hike into, two rods is just impractical, and not much fun, really.
And yes, there are many rods that function very well as an all around tool. I have an article publishing this spring on my favorite. It’s the Hardy Ultralite. Both the 10′ 4 weight and the Ultralite LL 9’9″ 4 weight are wonderful tools that I can finally say are my favorite. For many years, I loved nothing better than my Sage Z Axis, but of course, they haven’t made them for years. There were many good rods, but nothing that replaced my Z. The Hardy Ultralite finally does. You can see all my favorite gear in the Recommended Gear page. Find it in the Menu > Shop > Recommended Gear.
or direct link here:
https://troutbitten.com/recommended-gear/
Hope that helps.
Cheers.
Dom
Hi Dom,
How to you store your mono rig when you change to a dry fly leader? It’s hard to see how you can do that in about a minute.
Thanks,
Harold
Ah, you doubt me, Harold. 🙂
I agree, the normal way is a pain in the ass. Don’t do that with a thirty foot leader.
Two things:
Use old Maxima spools for storing leaders and changing like this:
https://troutbitten.com/2015/07/28/efficiency-part-2-leadertippet-changes/
And change leaders with a four turn clinch knot, like this:
https://troutbitten.com/2019/03/06/loop-to-loop-is-bad-try-attaching-your-leader-to-the-fly-line-this-way/
Make sense?
Dom
It does indeed. I actually use the same storage systems, i.e. empty Maxima spool and rigging foams for different tippet setups. I cut a groove in the side of the Maxima spool to hook the tippet ring in, and it holds nicely when winding the leader onto the spool. Old tippet spool elastic holds the rig in place. But, I will have to practice to get the procedure down to a minute. I’m a klutz. Maybe 5, if I’m lucky!
Nice. I like the notch for the tippet ring. Good idea.
Dom
Great article, thanks. I switched to a mono-rig type leader after reading one of your earlier articles and found it to be MUCH better than my euro braid core and 20’ leader combination. I now use 35’ or more of 8lb Amnesia (attached to Cortland braid core comp line) then add the sighter and tippet. I love the performance and visibility of the Amnesia.
As an aside, I discovered that this system works very well when I fish from a drift boat using an indicator terminal rig. Instead of 8lb Amnesia I use 12 or 15lb. My strike detection and hook setting both got a whole lot better, resulting in more landed fish. (Really got the attention of my guide on the Klamath a couple months ago.)
Cheers
MR DOM, REMEMBER GEORGE IS IN THE BUSINESS OF SELLING FLY LINES.
Nah. I don’t see it like that at all. George tells it like it is. No doubt.
Cheers.
Dom
Great article Dom, Thank you!
I have spent a lot of time on the following: euro line (hated the sag loved the line feel in hand), mono rig (enjoyed casting and versatility but it felt too stiff/thick for me) and also just straight 30 ft 4x-6x (casting is not not as enjoyable, it’s only built for smaller nymph rigs, but its ultra sensitive). I am still figuring out what I like best as they all have their pros and cons.
I feel like I should mention though that ultimately my solution has been to just carry two rods. I took euro lessons in Spain and that’s what a lot anglers do out there and they made it look effortless; I decided to give it a solid try. Once you get used to it, it’s really not bad and it allows (at least for me) less time rigging and more time fishing…and with dedicated tools. I usually have a dry fly rod + euro rod for summer, or streamer rod + euro rod in the winter months. It should also be noted that there are a lot of accessories being made these days to facilitate carrying two rods- making life a little easier.
Hope that helps or inspires someone.
Thanks again!
Dom,
Thanks for you analysis of the two different lines. As I have listened and watched instruction from Lance, Devin, George etc., most of the time, none of them use a euro fly line. It’s all mono. So to me a euro fly line is a mute point. I realize there are companies out there selling euro fly line, but if you want to truly euro nymph, a mono line is “standard operating procedure”. So maybe the only true difference between a euro rig and a mono rig is simply the length of the mono. Am I missing something?
Thanks,
David
Well, I guess the terms get a bit confusing, because they get bastardized and thrown around a lot where they probably don’t fit. Then people get used to it.
I strongly believe that a euro rig is tight lining under competition rules. So no attached weight allowed and no indy. That’s why I don’t call the Mono Rig a euro rig — because it’s not. And because there is nothing European about fishing monofilament on a fly rod. People have probably been doing that all over the world since monofilament was extruded.
Cheers.
Dom
I started euro-style with a mono-rig in my 9’ 5 weight and had a lot of fun and a lot of success. I upgraded to a euro rod and fly line. The big advantage of using a euro line, instead of a long mono leader is reeling-up. Reeling in a nice fish or reeling up to store the line with a mono rig, causes the line to cinch down tight in the reel and sometimes tangle into the fly line “backing”. The mono line also tends to unravel at the reel while fishing and get hung up on the moving parts. A euro line does not cause these small issues. A mono rig is more versatile because you can leave your dry fly line on the reel, however the euro line is better suited for strictly euro-style. I loved the mono rig and will probably go back to it because there are those days when I want to cast a dry to rising fish and don’t want to deal with managing two rods.
Hi there:
“Reeling in a nice fish or reeling up to store the line with a mono rig, causes the line to cinch down tight in the reel and sometimes tangle into the fly line “backing”.”
That happens only when the fly line is not spooled onto the reel tightly. For that, always use a pinky cradle.
https://troutbitten.com/2017/07/19/tight-line-tips-stop-mono-pull-fly-reel/
“The mono line also tends to unravel at the reel while fishing and get hung up on the moving parts. A euro line does not cause these small issues.”
I disagree here. Again, it’s a matter of line maintenance, and that’s up to the angler. Just good habits are necessary, like always keeping extra line on the spool, using the aforementioned pinky cradle and stretching whatever line you are using. These are things I do regardless of whether I’ using fly line or a Mono Rig.
” the euro line is better suited for strictly euro-style.”
I disagree with this as well, for all the points I made in the article above. The Mono Rig simply gives me better performance.
Cheers.
Dom, am I missing the boat since everyone is talking about 3 to 5 weight fly rods? I am looking at this setup 7 weight for steelhead fishing on the Erie tribs. Most of my fishing is done with nymphs and egg patterns or streamers at short distances. May I ask for your thoughts?
Hi Rick,
We steelhead fish with the same Mono Rig. If you are casting and not lobbing, you can really make any rod work. You won’t feel a seven weight load much from the leader, but you don’t need to in order to make the cast work. Personally, I fish a six weight for Erie steelhead, with the same Mono Rig formula listed here on Troutbitten. Only change is the tippet diameter. Often 3X.
Make sense?
Dom
Thanks Dom for your reply, yes it makes sense. I really enjoy your articles and recommendations for fishing gear and have never been disappointed. Most recently a new wading belt for Christmas. Currently I am listening to your interview on the “ Wet Fly Swing Fly Fishing” podcast. It is very interesting how you got started.
Dom,
I am very new to euro nymph fishing. Actually, I am very new to any kind of nymph fishing. I took a beginner course with TCO on Spring Creek and caught two. This encouraged me and I bought an Orvis 10’/3 wt. combo(Hydros II reel).
I am sure that you are familiar with this. I can get an extra extra spool and experiment and switch between the two fly lines on the reel, or am I potentially over complicating everything since I am so new to euro nymph fly fishing?
Hi Owen,
I’m glad you’re digging in to the tactics. It’s a lot of fun.
I feel like the answer to your questions are in the article above. I discussed the disadvantage of changing spools.
I do think you would be complicating something that is pretty simple. Just use a Mono Rig for your tight line and euro nymphing, and then change leaders when you like.
Cheers.
Dom
Hi Dom,
I’m a bit late on this terrific article, if I do choose to go the mono line route, what’s a good mild taper fly line I can use for dries and small streamers to work well with the 10.5” nymphing rod? A double taper? SA Mastery Trout?
Hi Damon,
Any decent fly line that matches your rod weight will work. Nothing special necessary. My favorite stuff is all here:
https://troutbitten.com/recommended-gear/
Cheers.
Dom
I discovered your website years ago but have recently rediscovered it, and glad I did! I enjoy your articles and have been inspired to reevaluate my tight line nymphing with the mono rig. I have used the technique for many years but had become lazy, usually putting on a heavy nymph and lob casting, often across seams. Since rediscovering your site I have been tying new mono rigs and measuring everything (I am retired and I used to be a research engineer). Been trying to stick the landing with a tuck cast and keep the nymph in the same current seam… all that good stuff you teach. Have gotten into some nice fish, too! Also pulled out Joe’s Trout Tactics and reread it. Regarding competition fly line, I had some on hand. Cortland competition fly line labeled 0.017 actually measured 0.020″. Twenty lb Chameleon labeled 0.017 actually measured 0.019″. Weights of a 1′ piece on a very accurate GemPro-250 Precision scale were 62 mg for the Cortland and 60 mg for the Chameleon. Based on these data, it seems that competition fly line may not be significantly heavier than mono of the similar diameter.
Tom
I guess my conclusion is I am going to tie up a rig using 24′ of the 0.017 Cortland competition fly line in place of 20 lb Chameleon for the base and try it out.
Hi Tom,
We would get along well. I love anglers who weigh stuff! Data matters.
“Based on these data, it seems that competition fly line may not be significantly heavier than mono of the similar diameter.”
Good point. But the comp line is much less stiff — even the mono core, because it’s really only about an 8lb core. So it’s sloppier to cast. The 20# Mono Rig, ironically, casts a lot more like a fly line than a comp line.
Also, don’t forget, if you commit to a comp line on the reel spool. You are all in on nymphing with that setup. I enjoy the option of changing leaders and using the fly line for what it excels at — casting dry flies!
Dom
Thank you for republishing this article.
To be a bit autobiographical, I’ve nymphed with all kinds of mono rigs, from the Troutbitten leader to a micro-leader composed of 4x sighter material. Since I prefer to fish upstream, and like the tuck cast, I tend to choose a Troutbittew-style line more often than not. But one advantage of using a thin fly line that I don’t see much mention of is in strike detection. There are times when I love to nymph the way Joe Humphreys does, with a fly line, upstream with a tuck cast, using the entire fly line, not a sighter, as a strike indicator. Close up, the fly line is held above the water and does a fantastic job of signaling a strike by getting tight (it also tells you when you’re in the strike zone by jiggling a bit). When fishing farther upstream, the fly line can be cast in the traditional upstream style, with a little bit of fly line in the water to anchor the drift, thereby minimizing drag (I should add that, for me, sag induced drag is far more pernicious when nymphing across stream than upstream). I find the Joe Humphreys style of numbing very relaxing and productive. Do you have any thoughts about this, Dom?
Hi Alex,
Good stuff. Yes, my thoughts . . . I fished that way for about fifteen years. I rarely go back, but sometimes . . .
https://troutbitten.com/2021/02/17/regarding-classic-upstream-nymphing/
I do guide this way more often than I expected I would. And it teaches discipline about angles, as you mentioned.
I love that there are so many ways to make the whole thing work.
Cheers.
Dom
“Numbing?” Damn auto-correct. Naturally, that should be “nymphing.”
Dom,
Do you used the mono rig when shot dropping your flies
Yes
My mono rig leader is Maxima 20lb. I find that it shoots line really well the first day I use it. However the next trip I feel like I am casting through molasses. It just wont shoot the line. I thought it was curl but I am not seeing that. My primary fishing stream has lots of algae and weeds. Yesterday when this happened I rubbed fly floatant on the first 20 or so feet and was able to shoot line again. Do you have this problem and what do you do?
Hi Mickey. I’ve never heard of this issue before. I will say that a fly line of ANY type will certainly grab more algae and stuff than any type of monofilament.
Dom
Dom How do I search up a specific article here on the site.. I want to know if all Maxima lines are similar.. Have you thought or tried the HV Maxima 20lb for main mono section?.. And or ultra green Maxima or is it just the Maxima chameleon line that you still suggest? TIA
Search page is in the menu at the top.
But yes, I’ve tried and continue to test just about everything out there. Can’t beat Chameleon. It functions with power, but doesn’t hold a coil once it is stretched. Very unique stuff.
I will have to read all the comments here interesting in themselves. still a traditional match the hatch dry fly fisherman here too and enjoy WF floating lines and remember reading and watching similar demos between the traditional fly-lines and Euro nymph thin lines also mono set-ups.. It sure is going to be interesting .. Everything I read from the Dom here makes sense.. if the hatch ain’t happening which is like more times than not than this style of presentation of nymph fishing more likely fill that big void …. As a newbie Euro enthusiast I will start off with budget Maxcatch 10.6 3 wt inexpensive combo 3/4 reel the backing the 10 dollar thin mono or braid nymph line .. I will also try the main mono rigs you suggested. as well as be versatile with a few different rigs for every occasion..and upscale as you explain Dom.. just like to go it slow at a beginners pace .. I have yet to experience much anything hands on this Euro nymphing.. I do like the read about the traditional fly line on the reel not having to switch reels.. but i bought the inexpensive 10 dollar nymph line before reading this troutbitten edition.. ll good man.. ty for sharing.. great reads as alway.. videos too!
Cheers
Hey Dom, trying to get into euro-mono rig nymphing and am looking for advice on gearing up: if you had to get one rod for euro line and mono rig with one reel that you could have two spools for (one for mono rig set up and one for euro line set up), what would the best options be for a 3 weight set up with no price restrictions? Thanks!
Hi Max. Glad you asked. I have a couple articles on Troutbitten for almost everything by now. Here’s a good one that will answer you question:
The Best Fly Rods for the Mono Rig and Euro Nymphing
https://troutbitten.com/2021/09/22/the-best-fly-rods-for-the-mono-rig-and-euro-nymphing-my-favorite-rods/
Also, I am NOT an advocate of changing spools! Why? Because it’s far too much effort and no one will do it nearly as often as if they are just changing the leader. Here are a couple resources on that one:
Loop to Loop is Bad. Try Attaching Your Leader This Way:
https://troutbitten.com/2019/03/06/loop-to-loop-is-bad-try-attaching-your-leader-to-the-fly-line-this-way/
VIDEO | Lightning Fast Leader Changes
https://troutbitten.com/2022/05/05/lightning-fast-leader-changes-with-video/
Make sense?
Dom