Nymphing is usually the best way to meet trout on their own terms. And throughout the seasons, simple nymph patterns catch the most fish. That’s especially true here in the fertile limestone spring creeks of Central Pennsylvania, but no matter where I’ve fished (whether a tailwater, freestone or limestone river) nymphing produces the best numbers. And often, a dialed-in and targeted nymphing game will also produce the best size. The biggest and best fish are underneath, so that’s where I put my flies.
With so much time spent with a nymph at the end of the line, what’s the best fly rod for nymphing? And when we do switch to streamers, can we fish them with the same fly rod?
Yes. Absolutely.
** NOTE ** Scroll below to find my favorite fly rods for the Mono Rig and Euro Nymphing.
Improvise | Adapt | Overcome
As the river changes, so does my strategy for approaching fish and getting a fly to them. From season to season, from day to day, from seam to seam, changing and adapting to the conditions is the most important variable for success.
On a late summer morning, I may need a pair of small nymphs cast into broken water at the head of a pocket. The following week, after a bit of rain, the same fish may be more responsive to a larger stonefly pattern or a streamer paired with a small nymph. I’ve come to know what changes are required on my favorite stretches of water. And I enjoy adapting my rig (the flies and leader) for what will best catch a trout.
These things may change: the size and type of flies, the tippet length and diameter, the addition or subtraction of a suspender. But one thing remains constant as I wade upstream into the current — my fly rod.
Photo by Chris Kehres
One Rod to Rule Them All
While wading, I use the same fly rod all day long. If it was convenient to carry a second or third rod, or if the truck was closer than it usually is, I would still rather use one tool to get the job done.
By working with one versatile fly rod in my hands, I learn it completely. I develop an accuracy and familiarity that cannot be gained by changing rods for every situation.
Sure, I’ve tried various methods for carrying two rods, but there’s no system efficient enough to satisfy me. As I pull on my waders and lace up my boots, I make a decision: Which fly rod will I take? For me, it’s a simple choice between a few main rods. I use the three weight when I expect to nymph with light tackle, the five weight when I have good reason to cast larger streamers, and the four weight to be prepared for anything. (My four weight comes with me on the majority of my trips.)
The Mono Rig and Euro Nymphing
I’ve come to believe that the Mono Rig is the best choice for nearly all subsurface fishing. And I’ve written extensively about Mono Rig tactics over the hundreds of articles in the nymphing category here at Troutbitten.
READ | Troutbitten | Category |The Mono Rig
To summarize, a long mono leader gives me more control over presentation by removing the unnecessary mass of a fly line, dramatically cutting down on the negative effects of drag. With the Mono Rig, I have improved strike detection and better command over the direction of the drift. I can stay tight to my flies, streamer or suspender. So I choose a fly rod that casts the Mono Rig in all the different ways that I use it: with light to heavy nymphs, tight line and with a suspender, dry dropper, or fishing small and large streamers.
Euro nymphing is a term used to group together the tactics of tight line or contact nymphing with nothing attached to the leader but the flies themselves. That means no indicators and no split shot. And while I love euro nymphing as a baseline approach, I refuse to limit myself with any such restrictions. Because indicators fished on a tight line, using split shot, and fishing streamers on a Mono Rig are all deadly variations of long leader tactics.
READ: Troutbitten | Beyond Euro Nymphing
Photo by Chris Kehres
Do you need a specialized fly rod?
No.
I’m happy to tell you that nearly any fly rod can handle a Mono Rig. With a bit of adjustment to the casting stroke, you can make it work. Of course, some rods are more fit for the job than others. And some fly rods limit the possibilities and versatility of the full system.
Let’s talk about that . . .
What to Look for in a Fly Rod?
I think it’s important first to realize what your needs are. Maybe you’re not interested in casting suspender rigs or streamers. In that case, a light competition-style fly rod may be your best choice. The comp rods, or other rods marketed as Euro-Nymphing fly rods, are long and light. Rarely do they exceed a 4 weight, and 2 or 3 weights are more common.
The lighter weight rods also load easier, so the minimal weight of the leader (Mono Rig) can actually flex a 3 weight rod more than a 5 weight rod. That can be helpful if you are casting very light nymphs at long distances, but it can make casting and accuracy difficult when you add a suspender or switch to heavier nymphs or streamers. It’s important to understand that euro nymphing rods are specialized tools that surrender some versatility.
Some of the lighter weight competition rods also lack the backbone to fight the biggest trout. This is especially true in the cheaper versions of these specialized rods. You can land just about any size of trout on any weight rod if you play the fish right, but many of the lighter rods bend too deeply into the butt section for me. Some of them don’t have the power to quickly fight large trout in heavy currents, and I just feel under-gunned.
Fly Rod Flex
When you ditch the fly line and switch over to the Mono Rig or euro nymphing, slower action rods may feel more natural because they load easier — the leader itself causes the flex. But a fast five weight fly rod can efficiently cast light nymphs too, with the right casting stroke — it just feels different because the rod doesn’t load as much. I find the flex of a rod to be a very personal choice. It’s different for everyone, but most anglers can get used to any fly rod in short order.
Slower, full-flex fly rods don’t suit my own, impatient style. I like a medium-fast or fast rod for all methods of fly fishing, and the lighter, slower rods don’t work for me. My casting style and my Standard Mono Rig are built for casting with power, using the leader to push flies to a target with tuck casts that punch the fly and the trailing tippet into pockets and undercuts with authority.
READ: Troutbitten | Fly Fishing the Mono Rig — It’s Casting, Not Lobbing
READ: Troutbitten | Thoughts on Rod Tip Recovery
Fly Rod Length
Length, however, is more universally helpful. Going a bit longer is one of the best things you can do for your nymphing game. It’s startling how much reach you gain with an extra six inches at the rod tip. And an extra foot of rod length extends your reach much further than just twelve inches into the current.
READ: Troutbitten | Fly Rod Length vs Fly Rod Reach — Devin Olsen Does the Math
Anything less than nine feet is a little short for the Mono Rig. Going over ten feet is great for the added reach, but keep in mind that longer rods usually flex more. Again, it’s a personal choice, and I’ve written a full article on the subject.
READ: Troutbitten | The Pros and Cons of a Longer Fly Rod
Photo by Pat Burke
The Point
To fish the Mono Rig and get into tight line or euro nymphing, you probably don’t need more than the rod that you already have. Most fly rods will get the job done, and many standard, popular rods are perfect for it.
As you experiment with tight line tactics and become comfortable with the Mono Rig, you’ll discover how far you want to take it. Adding a suspender is easy and allows you to fish types of water that you can’t effectively tight line. Switching from nymphs to streamers is also easy, and the added weight makes the Mono Rig a breeze to cast. Lighter rods are well suited for tight lining with average nymphs. Heavier weight rods will make casting suspender and streamer rigs more comfortable and efficient. Once you decide what you want to do with the Mono Rig, you will find your own point of compromise.
My Favorite Fly Rods
The preamble in the text above is necessary for understanding the choices that I list below. I want versatility and power in my hands, with every rod that I carry.
As a full-time fly fishing guide, I cast most of the fly rods on the market throughout the season. My clients bring everything. And it takes just a few minutes of casting their rods to understand the strengths and weaknesses of the tool in hand.
These are My Favorite Fly Rods for the Mono Rig and Euro Nymphing
** Note ** The partnerships and the support of this industry are part of what keeps Troutbitten going. You can read my policy on gear reviews HERE. And if you decide to buy these rods (or if you buy any other products through these links), Troutbitten receives a commission of the sale, at no additional cost to you, when you click through any of the links below. So thank you for your support.
Best All Around Fly Rod for the Mono Rig
The Hardy Ultralite 10 Foot 4 Weight
This is my favorite rod on the market today. It’s my go-to choice for most of my trips to the river, because it does so many things so well. The Hardy Ultralite handles all my nymphing rigs, from Micro-Thin Mono Rigs and small nymphs, to my Standard Mono Rig with an indicator and a pair of heavy stoneflies. It casts streamers on the Mono Rig beautifully, and has enough stiffness in the upper third to invite twitches and jerk strips.
The Hardy Ultralite has a nimble rod tip that recovers quickly. That makes it one of the most accurate fly rods that I’ve ever cast, and it allows for crisp rod tip animations to the fly while performing crossover techniques. When the trout are rising, the Hardy Ultralite is my favorite performer with a George Harvey dry fly leader.
The ten foot length gives me plenty of reach while nymphing, without jamming me up with too much length while stripping streamers.
The four weight provides enough power to push Dorsey yarn indicators or bushy dry dropper rigs to a target, even when paired with lighter nymphs. And when fishing large streamers on a Mono Rig, the rod is stout enough not to lag on the backcast.
After years of searching, The Hardy Ultralite is my number one recommendation for maximizing the versatility of the Mono Rig.
** Buy the Hardy Ultralite at Trident, and support Troutbitten **
or . . .
** Buy the Hardy Ultralite at Backcountry, and support Troutbitten **
Best Fly Rod for Euro-Nymphing
Orvis Helios H3F 3wt 10’6”
The Orvis H3F 10’6” in a 3 weight is my favorite specialized euro nymphing rod. The entire H3F line has an impressive, light in-the-hand feel, and they are the most sensitive fly rods I’ve ever used. Every tick on the bottom and even the line through the guides is felt so readily that it can be startling at first.
I simply love the 3 weight H3F. For feeling contact, for painting the riverbed with a point fly or drop shot, and for tracking a pair of sixteens through a pocket water seam, the Orvis H3F 10’6” three weight is unequaled.
The H3F matches my preference for crisp casting without over-flexing the rod at any point through the blank. It’s remarkably tight for a longer three weight. It flexes in all the right ways, and its recovery is super smooth.
When my focus is on tight line and euro nymphing, this is the rod I reach for. The Orvis H3F 10’6” three weight also handles medium weighted indicator rigs and medium streamer sizes with ease, while casting dry flies beautifully. For a specialized rod, it has a lot of versatility built in.
** Buy the Orvis H3F 3wt 10'6' at Avidmax, and support Troutbitten **
or . . .
** Buy the Orvis H3F 3wt 10'6' at Trident, and support Troutbitten **
Best For Streamers on the Mono Rig
Orvis H3F 10 foot 5 weight
In truth, I do more of my tight line streamer fishing on the four weight than I do the five, same as most of my euro nymphing happens on the four weight, because that’s what is most often in my hands. But when I set out to fish streamers all day, when my plan is to throw the long flies on a Mono Rig, I choose something with more backbone.
The Orvis H3F 10 foot 5 weight is my favorite fly rod for fishing streamers on the Mono Rig. The extra rod strength, especially at the tip, allows for bigger rod tip motion. The jerks, jigs and twitches that are so important to good streamer action. The super sensitivity of the H3F line, the light feel and quick recovery are the perfect match for how I fish streamers. And yet, when I’m miles away from the truck and the trout won’t touch a streamer, transitioning to euro nymphing or fishing suspenders on the Mono Rig is effortless with this rod.
Remember, these are my favorite fly rods for pairing with the Mono Rig, so we are not casting the weight of a fly line with the streamers. And on a jerk strip, we’re not pulling a sinking line through the water, it’s only the Mono Rig and the weight of the flies and/or split shot.
I grab this rod when I’m jumping in a boat to chuck streamers for many miles. And when I set out to cover a ton of water on foot, throwing fur and feathers at undercuts and logjams, the Orvis Helios H3F 10 foot 5 weight is my favorite tool.
** Buy the Orvis H3F 5wt 10' at Trident, and support Troutbitten **
or . . .
** Buy the Orvis H3F 5wt 10' at Orvis, and support Troutbitten **
Others
Yes, the fly rods listed above are all top of the line, expensive offerings. They are my favorite rods on the market, but there are other excellent brands and models well suited for the job. Some of these are listed on my Recommended Gear page, along with a short entry for why I choose them.
READ: Troutbitten | Recommended Gear
Best Budget Fly Rod for Euro Nymphing
The Cortland Nymph Series
Cortland’s Nymph Series fly rods are my best recommendation for coming in under $300.
I like the versatility of the four weight, and I hand this rod to my guided guests quite often. It has a more forgiving rod tip — a little softer than my other rods — and I often notice that anglers get a feel for casting the Cortland easier than they do on higher end rods.
Even the three weight has enough backbone to turn the biggest trout in a fast fight, and it’s a good tool for euro nymphing.
** Buy the Cortland Nymph Series at Trident, and support Troutbitten **
Best Mid-Range Fly Rods for the Mono Rig and Euro Nymphing
Orvis Recon
The Recon series is hard to beat. With so many of the same characteristics as the H3F lineup, Orvis’ Recon fly rods are my favorite choice at the middle price point. Light feel in the hand, crisp, with plenty of backbone, the Recon fly rods are a great daily companion on the water.
For tight line tactics I like the three, four and five weights, all as ten footers, with the four weight being the best all-around tool.
** Buy the Orvis Recon at Trident, and support Troutbitten **
or . . .
** Buy the Orvis Recon at Orvis, and support Troutbitten **
Don’t Wait | Learn With What You Have
Buying a specialized fly rod for tight lining on the Mono Rig isn’t necessary. And a rod that is too specialized can actually hold you back from exploring all the tactics available on a Mono Rig.
READ: Troutbitten | Use a Versatile and General Fly Rod
The rods listed above are my favorite options. They are my best recommendations for when you are ready to make a purchase.
If you want to spend money on a new rod, then do it. But you don’t need the latest tech-dry shirt to go for a run. You don’t need a carbon-fiber frame in between the tires to enjoy a bike ride. And you don’t need anything more than your own fly rod to start casting the Mono Rig. Have fun out there, and catch fish.
Fish hard, friends.
Enjoy the day.
Domenick Swentosky
T R O U T B I T T E N
domenick@troutbitten.com
Just curious Dom of your experience between the Hardy Ultralite and Ultralite LL. Eventually I would like to get a more verastile rod.
Hi Mike,
I have the Ultralite LL as a 4wt 9’9″ as well. I honestly went back and forth for months on which one I liked better. And for me, it so often comes down to being versatile. I like the slightly more powerful Ultralite. The LL has plenty of power, and it feels as though it’s in the same series of rods, really. The fact that it’s 3 inches shorter stiffens it up a bit, but it does flex a touch more for me when casting and working streamers with the rod tip. They are very close in performance though (to me). Hope that helps, Mike.
Cheers.
Dom
Same here Dom. After fly fishing for over 50 years, I’m still learning each time I’m on the water. It’s gotten to be a challenge choosing which rod to use and versatility ends up winning out. I own the 4wt. LL the T&T Contact 2, the ESN and even the Recon and Cortland that you talk about. I go for the Hardy more than any. People should have such problems? The mono rig has completely changed my game. It’s fun knowing that, “ You don’t panic, you adjust” ( Joe Paterno). The coach was right. !! Versatility makes for a good day.
I like that.
Hey Dom I’m having a hard time finding the right rod for me, I’m relatively new to nymphing and would like to fish the Mono Rig and I’m not really sure what kind of setup to go for in terms of rod and reel.
Love that you included a “budget” section, this will be key to getting more people in the game…although I learned most of this on the gear I had at the time which was definitely cheap and definitely not designed to fish a mono-rig. The right rod makes the whole thing so much more enjoyable though.
Any thoughts on the Thomas & Thomas contact series? Never casted one but several people I trust swear by them.
Great article Dom. Thanks. Curious of your impressions of the new Orvis Blackout H3 11′ 3 wt. On the rivers out here, and the type of fishing I do, I prefer an 11′ rod.
Appreciate all you do. – Mark on the South Fork of the Snake
Hi Mark,
I have the Blackout H3 11′ 3 WT. It feels like an H3. And that’s a very good thing. For ME, 11 feet is too long for what I like to do. I still prefer the 10’6″ for my “specialized” rod, because I still want that versatility. But if you are dedicated to euro nymphing and plan to focus there, it’s a great rod to do it. I’ve handed that rod to a number of clients now who are blown away by the extra length. 🙂 Eleven feet is OUT there. Hope that helps, Mark.
Cheers.
Dom
Thank Dom!
Hi Greg,
I really like the T&T Contact series as well. I include it also in my Recommended Gear page. The hard part about writing this article is choosing my favorites. In truth, I chose the rods that I tend to put in my hands the most. I think that is most telling.
Cheers.
Dom
Also curious about the difference between the Hardy Ultralite and the Hardy Ultralite LL
great article! I share your opinion, that a 10′ 4 wt. rod is the most versatile rod for most trout fishing. i have several, and vacillate between the T&T Avantt and the Scott Radian. Fishing in the west, where the rivers are bigger than in the east, I favor the Avantt, which makes 5o’ casts a breeze and is spot-on accurate.
take care,
al
Having a rod that meets the needs of all the different scenarios one might encounter on a trip is a tall order when your default method is euro style nymphing. For sure, I went through several rods that all fell short. I settled on the 10’ 3 wt MasterNymph Bellator and it has been a game changer. Early on, it was obvious to me that a true euro rod would have to have very specific attributes including a sensitive tip, quick recovery, and a strong butt section to not only manage large fish but to accurately cast heavy streamers. This is the beauty of the Bellator in that it superbly manages light weight rigs or dual heavily weighted streamers.
I predominantly utilize an 18’ straight level leader built w 3# Maxima Chameleon w 2-3’ of 6x Rio sighter with a adequate length of 6-7x tippet. I frequently use a single #18-20 fly w a 2.5mm tungsten bead. Despite such a light setup, this rod loads exceptionally well and accuracy is laser like. I love fishing pocket water and this rod feels at home there. On the other extreme, I can quickly switch to using 2 large heavily weighted streamers and never miss a beat. Likewise, I can change to a dry/dropper. It just does it all. There’s a reason these rods are popular among the competition crowd (which I’ve done-no more now). Such versatility does not come cheap as their rods command a premium. So, these rods are not for everyone when keeping price down is of concern.
This rod has shown me the importance of control when casting. Having the ability to place such a small fly in a matchbox 20-25’ away simply results in more fish as I dissect the water in front of me. There’s no doubt, this rod has improved my catch rates and made me a better fly fisher.
I’m sure this all sounds like a paid commercial, but I am not endorsed by them. I paid out of pocket for, not just one, but 2 Bellators (also have the 10.5’ 3wt) because I was so impressed.
There are times when I carry a second rod, particularly when I fish the South Holston River in east Tn. It’s a large tail water w a ton of wild browns that are highly skiddish. There are a lot of long glass like stretches whereby the slightest wading movement telegraphs your presence. So here, I whip out my 9’ 5wt Hardy Zenith with a 18’ tapered leader specifically hand built by me for such conditions. Fishing a beetle tight to the bank and watching a wild brown hammer it is the high water mark for me. It’s a rush for sure and only drives the hunger for more of the same. But then again, every fish I catch still feels like the first.
“Having a rod that meets the needs of all the different scenarios one might encounter on a trip is a tall order when your default method is euro style nymphing.”
Well, I don’t fully agree there. Your demands are different because you choose to fish such a light set up for flies. I rarely fish that light, because it’s not necessary, and trout respond more when I have better control over the precision of the drift. Even when I do fish that light, I don’t buy the idea that we need an extra flexible rod to feel the weight of the nymphs on the backcast. I always prefer power and turnover.
Great info Dom, thanks. Do you have any experience with the Winston boron super 10?
I do not.
Hi Dom,
Thanks for the work you do.
I may go for the Hardy I have been looking for a 10’ 4wt.
Any thoughts on the Syndicate P2
Pipeline?
I don’t see it talked about much. Have you tried one.
Thanks
Tim
I prefer the rods I mentioned over the Syndicate
I became an Orvis fan after buying the gen 1 Recon 10′ 3wt. Then got the gen 1 Recon 10′ 4wt before they disappeared. Recently got a Cortland Nymph 10’6″ 3wt and really like it.
Being a spey junkie had to try single hand spey. The Cortland throws a 175 Commando head with poly’s and pine squirrel streamers better than I expected. Same with the Recon #4. So nymphing upstream and swinging small streamers & softies downstream with one rod is fun city. Your site is great info.
I was blown away with the TNT Contact 2 10’2wt. It’s fast but still casts light nymphs very well. It’s not a normal 2wt. Progressive to the point of 2wt to a low 4wt range. I dare say it here but… I still enjoy casting fly line to rising trout in slow pools if the opportunity presents. When armed with a 3wt DT the rod throws beautifully from 25-60 feet. I know your thoughts on fly line….I do get it. That being said it’s an all day rod. Have you put it through the paces?
Thoughts?
Hi Mike:
“I still enjoy casting fly line to rising trout in slow pools if the opportunity presents.” ME TOO. I try to make this point often. I fish dry flies a lot. I use fly line a lot, for what it does well.
Anyway, yes, I like the Contact series a lot, and I have it on my Recommended Gear page. Respectfully, the 2 weight is not a versatile solution, no matter how good the backbone, or the taper, etc. That tip flexes far too much for good streamer ACTION. Not saying it won’t cast the streamer and a Mono Rig. I’m saying that the rod is too thin at the tip to recover quickly enough for good jerk strips – that sort of thing.
Those are my thoughts.
Cheers.
Dom
Hi Dom, I have seen some reviews suggesting the Orvis Recon Gen 2 is a stiffer and heavier rod than the previous Gen 1 model. Do you think the new Gen 2 Recon in a 10 ft 4 wt would still be a good mid range priced option for Mono Rig fishing?
Best,
John
I had the same question. I hope Dom is able to answer. I’m assuming that since the article was written when the Gen 2 was out and the link goes to the Gen 2, Dom is recommending it. I’m not able to drop a $1,000 on a new rod.
Yes! Absolutely. I always prefer power and more turnover.
Cheers.
Dom
What if we reversed this a bit and asked: “What is a quite capable (not best) conventional rod that is also capable of handling the mono rig?”
I have flipped the mono rig quite comfortably with a Douglas Sky 4 wt 8′-6″.
(But, alas, it is not a 9′ plus and I have anxiety attacks that my family finds uncomfortable. 🙂
That’s an excellent way to put it. My brief answer is that almost any rod will work. But I’d like something with strength but flex. Six weights become a little much. And anything shorter than 8’6″ is quite a handicap. I sincerely believe that many specialized 2 weight, extra long euro rods do more harm than good, by hamstringing the angler into a limited set of specific tactics.
hey dom, curious why you prefer the orvis h4f in a 5 for mainly streamer fishing over just the hardy ultralite in a 5 wt ? difference in the tip sensitivity / strength or something else?
H3F. Simple answer, really — just because it’s a little faster throughout the rod.
Cheers.
Dom
thanks for the quick reply! i really appreciate your site and podcast. keep up the good work!
What about the new Sage R8 Core rods? Have you had a chance to try them out?
I have the same question. They’re marketed as great “all around” rods. Thanks!
I’d be interested in hearing your feedback on the R8, as well. They market it as an all-around rod. Thanks!
Right on. I have a nine footer. Trying to get a ten. I’ll keep in touch.
Any update or thoughts on the R8s? I’m eyeballing the 10′ 4wt.
Hi Andy. It’s a great rod. It’s in my truck right now, in rotation. The above are still my personal favorites
Thanks for all the tipps here, I love hearing the podcast and reading the articles here.
Since I can’t afford that much money I would be very thankful for rod tips under $300.
For example the Vision Nymph Hero and Echo Carbon XL Euro Nymph are (a little) cheaper. Are they any good?
Regarding to the Cortland Nymph: You prefer it even that it’s a 10,6ft and no 10ft?
And would you choose the #3 oder #4 as an allrounder for dry fly, streamers and nymphs?
All the best from Germany and sorry for my bad english!
Supplementary to this, another question:
If I understand the podcast and the blog correctly, you don’t recommend using a special nymph rod for the monorig.
That because the tip is too sensitive and the rod is thus not versatil enough for the Monorig, correct?
And the Cortland Nymph is something of an exception to this?
Again: Thanks for help!
Have you tried the Douglas Sky 10’ 4wt? I’m curious as to how it would compare to the Hardy Ultralight.
I have not. Sorry.
(I meant to post a new comment, not a reply).
Have you tried the Douglas Sky 10’ 4wt? I’m curious as to how it would compare to the Hardy Ultralight.
Dom, as a relatively inexperienced angler, who has been ramping up my knowledge and skills over the last few years, I have to say that you and this web site in general are national treasures. Thanks for all the effort you put in. I read and re-read your articles constantly and finally feel like I’m getting ready to really up my game on the water. Thanks again.
Love to hear that. Thanks. Good luck.
Hello,
I just recently found your site and it is amazing. I have been fly fishing just over a year now and must admit that it is mostly euro nymphing. I like the idea of the mono rig for more flexibility without carrying multiple rods on the water. I was curious if you could recommend which rod of the ones I own would be good to try out the mono rig on? I own a syndicate P2 in a 2wt 10 ft and a 3 wt 11 ft. I also own a Orvis Clearwater 10 ft 3 wt as well. I appreciate your time and keep the awesome content coming!!
Thanks
Chris
Hi there. I appreciate your compliment, and I understand your question.
Truth is, if you choose a Mono Rig and then continue nymphing with it the same as you have been euro nymphing, nothing much changes. The answer to your question really lies in what you want to do with the Mono Rig. Will you fish streamers with it? How heavy will those flies be? Will you add an indy at times? Bobber or yarn? Will you focus on tuck casting and pushing your leader into curves and positions before the fly hits the water or will you continue standard style of casting, where everything lands in contact? Those are the things to wonder about. Those are the advantages the Mono Rig can give you over some other leaders, but I don’t know your euro leader build. It might be very similar.
Honest answer: I don’t care for any of those rods for having much versatility. The Syndicate 2 weight is way too soft, and the 11 footer is too long and limber. The Orvis Clearwater 3 weight 10 foot is my answer, but I’ve fished that rod, and I wouldn’t want to cast indys and streamers on it, or even much dry dropper. You have three pretty similar and very specialized rods there. Like my friend, Austin, says: sometimes people try this stuff with a rod that doesn’t suit the tactic. And they walk away thinking that tight line to the indy, for example, makes things sloppy. When the truth is, the rod simply couldn’t handle the tactic very well.
We’ve discussed this a bit on the podcast as well . . . the industry continues to release more and more specialized rods. They are great rods, but they are good for one or two things, and not at all versatile tools. As you read above, I strongly prefer a tool that does more. And in truth, even if I only tight line with light and medium weight nymphs all day, I still prefer the advantages of a ten foot four weight.
Might not be the answer you were looking for, there. Sorry. 🙂
Dom
Hi Dom
For small stream fishing do you ever use or like a shorter rod like 8 1/2 or shorter? If so any recommendations or tips?
I recently found your site and thanks for the great articles. I am lucky enough to fish rivers with flows 500 -2000 cfs and trout ranging between 18-25” inches in WY, UT, CO and NM tail-waters. I was wondering if a Hardy Ultralite 10’ 5 weight would be a better all around solution over the 4 weight for fish occasionally pushing 6 to 8 pounds and the often windy conditions. I have a friend who is more of a euro fisherman but is not afraid to use an indicator. He swears by the Hardy Ultralite LL 2 weight in 10’8” and I have seen him land 8 pounders in 1200 cfs mid-stream. I currently use a 10’ 6 weight TFO BVK and it works great, but lacks a little tippet protection when fishing 5.5X.
Thanks for your question. I’d say yes to the five weight. But let’s get this out of the way — for me, tippet protection is not a factor. I don’t use 7x and 8x tippet while nymphing, especially around the big trout you’re talking about. I believe tippet protection is my own responsibility. I’ll fight the fish wisely (hopefully) and I won’t have trouble. I can’t remember the last time I broke off and blamed the rod.
Another point, I wouldn’t choose the five weight because it will handle fish better, either. Your buddy’s two weight handles the big fish just fine, if again, he fights them with skill. There’s a lot of carryover in ideas from spin and conventional tackle to the fly rod here. Bottom line, you don’t need a heavier weight rod to land those fish.
HOWEVER, the wind is the most important factor that you mentioned, in my opinion, along with the big water flows and big fish. This tells me I’m going to fish mid to heavy weight flies or shot and you also mentioned an indy. All of that adds up, and I do NOT want to cast that kind of stuff on a 2 weight.
For me, it goes back to what I wrote in the article above: I want versatility. If I was to euro nymph all the time, then the 2 weight would probably be fine (it still wouldn’t be my first choice). But I do not want to be handicapped and locked into one tactic. I love fishing a pair of streamers in your situation, and I can do that easily on the 4 weight I fish every day.
Basically, it sounds like if I was fishing your waters, I’d go with the five weight for more power, more ease or delivery and more options.
Make sense?
Dom
Thanks for the detailed, quick reply, it makes sense. I agree on tippets and I thread size 24’s with a supple 5.5 X, (and magnifying glasses). Tippet protection is maybe the wrong phrasing. What I am talking about is more when I can’t use good technique and the fish runs down into current, rocks or depths where I cannot chase wading. I end up having to horse a little to guide them to where I can get them and end up occasionally breaking tippet, but more often pulling the hook out. The rod is fully bent and the fish and current are fighting against the bottom 1/2 of the rod. So a powerful rod I can lean into that still has a little fogiveness?
Have you fished the Orvis Blackout 11’ 3 weight?
Yes. I own it and have fished a lot. It’s the best 11 foot rod I’ve fished. But as I detailed above, anything that long or soft is not my personal favorite tool. It’s a specialized rod.
Thanks. Orvis is discounting it and it seems like a very good deal at the current price.
Hi Dom!
Excellent info, as is typical of all your pieces. Can you recommend a full cage reel that seems to balance best with the Helios 3F 10’6” 3 weight? Thank you!
Josh
ESN for sure, because you can adjust the weight.
Sage TROUT 5/6 works for me on that setup too.
Love both of those reels.
Dom:
Excellent website although I encounter information overload at times as a newbie to euro nymphing. Reading, watching videos, listening to podcasts, unless I’ve missed it, the focus of discussions obviously seems to focus on various leader configurations and from the rod tip to the fly/nymph. What about the line setup from the rod butt to the rod tip. What is really needed on the reel spool (backing etc) since euro lines are smaller in diameter and weigh less vs the standard fly rod setup. Considering the right balance concept, does one really need a full spool if using say a 5/6 reel with a 3wt euro line.
Thanks for your time and new articles and features coming out.
Hello Tim. I’m glad you found Troutbitten. What you seek is here on the website, in great detail. Try this article and use ALL the links contained therein. Everything in orange on this site is another clickable link.
Design and Function of the Troutbitten Standard Mono Rig
https://troutbitten.com/2021/03/14/design-and-function-of-the-troutbitten-standard-mono-rig/
That article is like the Keystone for so many others.
Also, I would not choose a Euro fly line unless you are forced to because you are competing. Much more here:
Euro Nymphing Fly Line vs The Mono Rig
https://troutbitten.com/2021/01/04/euro-nymphing-fly-line-vs-the-mono-rig/
Lots more in those articles for you.
Have fun out there.
Cheers.
Dom
My take from the content and comments here is that a 10′ 4wt is the versatile rod sweet spot.
Maybe like a Fender Telecaster is a versatile guitar sweet spot. But to each his own, right…?
Awesome job TroutBitten crew!!! Keep it rolling!
Dom – Great article, was wondering if you would update your rod choices at some to reflect new discoveries in terms on best budget, best mid-range, etc… I clicked on the link for the Hardy Ultralite 10′ 4wt, but it does not appear to be available anymore. I was wondering if you broke or lost yours, what would you replace it with in 2024? I see in one of the comments that the LL 9′-9″ was a consideration at the time. Keep up the great work!
John
Hardy LL 9;9″ is my current go to rod. Hardy Marksman is a great replacement for the 10 foot Ultralite — honestly, it’s even lighter. Sadly, Orvis chose not to manufacture a 1004 in the H4F series. Recon is the best value on the market, in my opinion. So, really, not much has changed here.